The cam might make a nice sound in the car but it will hurt low end torque and driveability. The duration in your cam is measured at 0.050 lift while the Thumper is gross duration, usually measured at 0.004 lift. That might make the valve hit the piston tops. Compare that to the valve lift of the Thumper… 0.479/0.465. You say the “cam lift” of your cam is 0.390/0/410… No, that is the valve lift. The data you posted is apples and oranges… It is also going to need you to check for interference between the piston tops and the valves. The thumper cam is going to want better heads, higher compression and better exhaust. THIS even would be an Exceedingly Rare and Joyous occasion believe me. This is what I should have responded with initially… and I am betting that many if not EVERYONE will agree with me temporarily… SO… this is the Pre- Answer basically… Need to know all that before you can dial in the engine and its characteristic What is the engine going into…and what are you doing with it… The answers will dictate what characteristics the engine would require in order to serve your purposes…whatever they are. We… and you… need to know what exactly you are trying to do with this engine and vehicle… we dont know the vehicle either…Īll answers that would be useful to you would be based on what you are trying to do… Is this engine going to power the worlds most powerful water pistol? Is it going into a Ski Lift ? Is it going into a Mazda Miata? Is it… well you get the idea at this point. I should have politely pointed out that you did not provide us with the information we need to actually try to answer you on the stats of what cam and what profile etc. Instead of just trying to answer you by directing your attention to the information source… I apologize… I should have answered your original question in a better manner rather that given you the info I gave. Should I helicoil it or tap it to metric? Im not putting a new crank in it since I’m not looking to break the bank and I want this engine done soon as possible. Any help would be greatly appreciatedīonus, I stripped some threads in the crank since i don’t believe the crank pulley bolt was long enough even though ARP said it was meant for a sbc, so I’m a little worried if I put a tool in there it’ll do some more damage.
I’m not building a 1000 horsepower motor, and I actually don’t even care if I lose power because the sound matters more to me. This is going to go into a 1968 firebird and I’m only looking to drive it. Bonus, I stripped some threads in the crank since i don’t believe the crank pulley bolt was long enough even though ARP said it was meant for a sbc, so I’m a little worried if I put a tool in there it’ll do some more damage. Can I get away with the factory rockers and hardened pushrods and new lifters? This isn’t a race situation, I just want to be able to drive the thing for a decent amount of time with a nice idle. This is what I don’t know, should I buy all new rockers that match the push rods as well? The engine hasn’t been put in the car even and came out of the crate not too long ago.
If I did buy this I do realize I need the better springs and I would buy some hardened push rods.
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